US Patent 8,448,386/AAMA 502-11 Tested/IRC R703.8 CompliantResidential / Multifamily / Commercial Request a quote
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A modern home at dusk with its windows lit

Sheet 05 / Installation

Installation Guide

The full procedure from the Installation Manual, and the drawings that go with it. Expect 1.5 to 3 hours per window. This is a difficult install compared to non flashing based installations and should be done by an experienced carpenter.

Windows lit from inside at dusk

The sequence / Ten drawings

What goes in, and in what order.

The existing siding or cladding is not shown in these drawings, to accentuate the install steps. On a real opening it stays on the wall.

  1. Stage 01 Remove the existing window
  2. Stage 02 Corner guards
  3. Stage 03 Sill flashing
  4. Stage 04 Head flashing
  5. Stage 05 Jamb flashing
  6. Stage 06 Interior L flashing
  7. Stage 07 Microsealant
  8. Stage 08 Sealant on the L angle
  9. Stage 09 Set the window
  10. Stage 10 Seal the perimeter
Every stage drawn full size, with its callouts

Tools / Manual page 8

  • 01Sawzall
  • 02J roller
  • 03Stapler
  • 04Snips
  • 05Utility knife
  • 06Putty knife
  • 07Pry bar
  • 08Skill saw
  • 09Chisel
  • 10Heat gun
  • 11Caulk gun
  • 12Teq Foam gun

Full procedure / Manual pages 9 to 11

Nineteen steps, in order.

  1. 01

    Remove the existing window from the opening by cutting around the opening rather than collapsing the frame. This keeps the building paper from being damaged and provides a guide for the sawzall when cutting siding nails.

  2. 02

    Cut back interior liners if necessary to accommodate the 1 3/8" head flashing and the depth of the window.

  3. 03

    Using a sawzall or other tool, cut the nails of the existing siding 3" around the perimeter of the window, being careful not to damage the existing building paper.

    TipLeave the old window nail fin in place and put the blade of the sawzall on the inside of the old nail fin, to keep the blade away from ripping the existing building paper. This step may not be achieved if the existing building paper is heavily degraded. Damage to the existing building paper is possible, especially with heavily degraded building paper.

  4. 04

    Cut the RJ corner to fit the window depth.

  5. 05

    Apply a 3/8" bead of OSI Quad Max to the corner and install it behind the existing building paper, to the sheathing.

  6. 06

    Install the sill flashing over the existing building paper.

  7. 07

    Install the head flashing behind the existing building paper.

  8. 08

    Install the new jamb flashing behind the building paper.

  9. 09

    Apply Teq Foam to voids at the liners as necessary.

  10. 10

    Install the interior L angle against the interior liners. Staple on 24" centers. Make sure the L angle will make at least a 1/4" bond to the interior window frame. Shimming of the L angle may be required.

  11. 11

    Apply primer to the rough opening if necessary. See the field tips below.

  12. 12

    Install the micro sealant tape over the interior L angle to the jamb and sill flashing, to create a 360-degree pan.

  13. 13

    Heat the micro sealant tape with a heat gun. Optional, depending on temperature.

  14. 14

    Apply a 1/4" bead of OSI Quad Max to the back leg of the inside L metal.

  15. 15

    Install the window into the opening, screwing it to the framing from the inside.

  16. 16

    Apply Teq Foam at the perimeter of the window if necessary.

  17. 17

    Caulk the exterior perimeter of the window with OSI Quad Max.

  18. 18

    Install interior trim if necessary.

  19. 19

    Caulk the interior of the window with interior sealant.

On video / Installation

The procedure, on a real wall.

Installation Every step named
Play the installation Plays from YouTube

The procedure on a real wall, each step named on screen: the preliminary sill flashing under the building paper, the sill, head and jamb flashing, the sealant tape, then the window itself.

Video record

Jobsite
Auburn, Washington
Published
May 2012
Length
5 min 38 s
Vinyl siding 12 min
Play the vinyl siding install Plays from YouTube

Rain Jacket integrates to the existing building paper without removing the vinyl siding. One window, start to finish, filmed from outside.

Stucco 6 min
Play the stucco install Plays from YouTube

Rain Jacket flashing around a sliding patio door in a stucco wall, on a Seattle condominium building.

Field tips / Manual pages 12 and 13

Before you start

  • Expect 1.5 to 3 hours to remove and install a window with this system.
  • This is a difficult install compared to non-flashing-based installations, and should be done by an experienced carpenter or do-it-yourselfer.
  • The system is designed to adapt to almost all window and door types, building envelopes and cladding systems. Ask us about your situation.
  • Prior to installing head, sill and jamb flashing, run a putty knife behind the siding to make sure any nails are not in the way.
  • Windows should be measured to accommodate the flashing and tape buildup at the framing.

The micro sealant tape

  • Install on clean, dry surfaces that are free of frost. Wipe off sawdust, dirt, grease and other debris that could interfere with adhesion.
  • Priming is generally not required on most common building materials. Adverse weather or cold temperatures may require a primer. Concrete, masonry and fiber faced exterior gypsum board require a primer.
  • Apply pressure along the entire surface with a J roller or firm hand pressure. Remove all wrinkles and bubbles, repositioning as necessary.
  • Do not stretch the micro sealant tape along sills or jambs. It is only intended to be stretched when covering corners or curved sections.
  • Heat the micro sealant tape with a heat gun in cold weather to help it adhere.

Fit and finish

  • Cut back the interior liners to accommodate the 1 3/8" head flashing projection. Most windows project 1 3/8" from the nail fin. If your window needs a larger throw, a local sheet metal shop can make the head flashing for you.
  • The window will set approximately 1/16" to 1/8" away from the liner because of the interior seal. This is a key part of the system. It can usually be hidden with an interior caulk bead, though in some cases interior trim is needed.
  • Sticky trim, wood casing, drywall, cove molding or colored L metal may be needed if the liners are less than 1/2", to cover the interior L metal back leg.
  • Lay metal shims at the bottom two outside corners to help slide the window into the opening and prevent ripping the tape.
  • Shave off excess vinyl at the corners of the new windows.
  • Leave the old nail fin in the wall system to help guide the sawzall blade away from the building paper.

Documents

Take the drawings with you.

No email required. These are the same documents that ship with the kit.

Support

Ask before you cut.

The system adapts to almost all window and door types, building envelopes and cladding systems. Tell us about the job and we will tell you how the system fits it.

Ask about your project Talk to us1-866-922-1086